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Restaurant review: Haven Gastropub in Orange
Amid gastropub glut, Haven stands tall.
The foodie world has been buzzing for years about gastropubs, to the point where cutting-edge gourmands are declaring the concept stale as day-old bread under a heat lamp.
A Chowhound thread two years ago, for example, asked if the idea was getting "played out." The Los Angeles Times last month said the "overrated" fad has reached saturation levels.
Lucky for us, the trend has barely heated up in Orange County, much less become warmed-over. Aside from the Crow Bar and Kitchen in Corona del Mar, I know of exactly zero gastropubs in O.C.
Until the debut last month of Haven Gastropub in Old Towne Orange. If you're unfamiliar with the business model, think of your friendly neighborhood watering hole, only with a clean shave and a breath mint.
My wife and I stopped in on a lazy Saturday at noon and opted to share a few plates. Speaking of plates, the china is stylish, and the cutlery has nice heft.
The Margherita flatbread, $12, is a fine rendition of the simple classic. Soft crust, fresh rounds of mozzarella and Roma tomato, spicy basil leaves and a traditional red sauce.
Black mussels, $14, showcase Haven's pronounced use of beer in recipes. The broth combines Arrogant Bastard Ale — an ultra-potent, dark-as-night brew — and heavy cream to achieve a harmonious yin-yang, with the hit-you-over-the-head beer mellowed by the silky cream. The mussels are sizable, soft and abundant — I counted 15 or so.
Fritto Misto, $10, left me ambivalent. The batter is flavorful but also quite oily. That works fine with the meaty halibut and the acidic lemon slices, but with green beans and sweet potatoes, it comes across more like Chicken Charlie's latest deep-fried creation at the O.C. Fair.
Click here for more of Jeff Overley's review of Haven Gastropub in Orange.
