Restaurant review: Zamora's Mexican Grill in Santa Ana

I wonder how many people only see Zamora's Mexican Grill from the drive-through line of Starbucks and just drive on by. From that view, the nondescript, boxy restaurant, tucked in a shopping center at Bristol Street and Memory Lane, looks about as enticing as a plastic coffee to-go lid.

But pull around to the other side, where ocean waves and lush fruit are painted on the windows, and Zamora's will bombard your senses from the first chip dipped in spicy salsa to the lively atmosphere of soccer match meets ancient Native American tribe.

Your first time there, you might experience a temporary lull in the conversation while you take in your surroundings. There are over-the-top skulls painted with beautiful squaws and a hanging, feathered tapestry of a chief. Then there's the red, white and green Mexican flag, plus matching light bulbs in the fixtures. Flat screen TVs playing soccer compete with a juke box loaded with mariachi music. Zamora's reminds me of a Christmas tree decorated by kids — a mismatched yet festive assortment of light, color and kitsch.

I went to lunch on an unseasonably warm fall day, feeling parched. Before even seeing a menu, the selection of aguas de frutas (a drink made of water, sugar and fruit juice) posted on the doorway caught my eye. I ordered an enormous pineapple-flavored glass ($3.50). It was ice cold, frothy and so refreshing that I got a temporary headache. I hadn't tasted an agua de pina this delicious since the days when I lived in Mexico City and ordered my to-go drink from a stand — served in a plastic bag with a straw tied at the end.

While my drink was plenty cold, the standout salsa had a hot bite and nice texture with chunks of seared tomatoes, onion, cilantro and chile. The chips were light, perfectly crisp and salted. I could have made that my entire meal. But we were there for the cheap lunch special — $6.45 for two items plus rice and beans.

I ordered a chile relleno and cheese enchilada. My friend ordered a chicken taco and beef enchilada combo. Our food arrived quickly, garnished with slices of cucumber and orange.

The chile relleno was plump and flavorful in a thick egg batter. It came covered in slices of red and green pepper. The red enchilada sauce was mild and savory. The rice and beans tasted standard, but nothing special. My plate was huge and I took home leftovers.

Click here for more of Courtney Perks' review of Zambora Mexican Grill at ocregister.com.